reviews

Major Player

"The name suggests cooking of a meaty, beaty, big and bouncy disposition rather than silver service slickness, but the reality is pitched comfortably between the two and indeed, though a considerable time previously, the joint housed the bovine contingent.

Steaks, as anticipated, are a major player and, though the menu lacks geographical ambition, there is clearly talent at work in a kitchen which keeps things simple. Class A starters include peppered beef with rocket and parmesan salad, a splash of truffle oil and a pleasing tendency towards silky rareness.

Try also a quietly accomplished roast salmon, oak smoked and presented with cous cous, rocket and balsamic dressing. Don't leave without doing damage to a sirloin - if it's with onions, field mushrooms, balsamic and thyme, so much the better - or having a crack at the chargrilled chicken, sporting sauteed savoy and smoked bacon."

Andrew Haigh - The Guardian